'I went to the tiny Italian town 2 hours from London that is known as 'the playground for the rich' and it felt like I was in a movie' - Rebecca Nicholson

‘I went to the tiny Italian town 2 hours from London that is known as ‘the playground for the rich’ and it felt like I was in a movie’ – Rebecca Nicholson

News Hour

Sun, vineyards, olives, and incredible pizza – these are just a few of the small things you can enjoy on a trip to the beautiful region of Tuscany, Italy. But, if it’s the community and authentic experience you’re after, I realised you will need to look A LOT further than the busy tourist hotspots.

After flying into Pisa and spending the day there, I was quite happy it was not my final destination. While it is extremely beautiful, and a must-do for any tourist, that is actually the main problem with it; it is extremely busy, and one day of exploring is plenty.

While most visitors to Tuscany tend to head straight for Florence, Pisa and the Chianti wine country, there is so much more to discover in what is arguably the most-loved region in Italy, and I was on a mission to find the best “unknown” spots. So, I made my way to Forte dei Marmi, which is 30 minutes on the train from Pisa, or if you are driving, a 40-minute journey.

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One day is enough in this tourism capital!

Known as Tuscany’s chicest seaside resort, Forte dei Marmi’s spectacular setting between the majestic, marble-rich Apuan Alps, and the Mediterranean sea is something that separates it from the rest of the Versilia.

And for those that have never heard of The Versilia (just like me before my trip), it forms part of the province of Lucca (a MUST visit for those in the area), set right between the mountains and the coastline in northwestern Tuscany, and includes cities and towns like Florence, Siena, Pisa, Lucca, Forte dei Marmi and Viareggio.

I quickly realised that above all else, Forte dei Marmi is a resort aimed at the extremely wealthy, and it is often called ‘the playground for the rich’. It has become extremely popular in recent years, with royalty, politicians, and celebrities – with the likes of Giorgio Armani, Andrea Bocelli and Ukraine’s President Volodymyr Zelenskyy- all owning holiday homes there.



Hotel Byron’s free bicycle service outside Forte dei Marmi’s Prada shop

In winter the town’s population is about 7,000; and in summer, it swells to about 150,000, with most staying in their own private villas.

However, the resort is not just made for those with holiday homes. It is filled with beautiful hotels, Michelin star restaurants, beach clubs, and a beautiful “high street” filled with luxury shops like Prada, Gucci and Fendi.

I stayed at the 5* hotel, The Byron, for 2 nights. The charming 5-star boutique hotel is in the heart of Forte dei Marmi, looking over the Mediterranean sea, and just a short walk, or bike ride, to the shops.



Hotel Byron’s beautiful poolside

Upon check-in, I was escorted to my room, which was on the ground floor with my own private terrace, and was given a luxurious robe and slippers. All of the 28 bedrooms have been decorated in a contemporary yet elegant Mediterranean style, with lots of cool white broken by splashes of blue, pink, mauve, grey, beige and turquoise, against dark hardwood floors.

Beds are piled with soft pillows and the luxurious bathrooms are made from local Carrara marble. The fridge was stocked with glass bottled mineral water, wine, spirits and juice, and above it was a small section filled with delicious snacks, which never seemed to be left empty – every time I left the room, my bed was re-made, and the fridge and snack section was re-stocked. These little touches by the staff made the stay extra special.

Standard double rooms start from €390 in low season, and from €800 in the high, and the penthouse suite would set you back €15,000 a night. So, the luxurious treatment does not come cheap. But, does it ever?



Hotel Byron’s penthouse suite

The villa is set in beautiful green gardens, with a luxurious pool, jacuzzi and cushioned sunbeds. As soon as I walked onto poolside, a friendly lifeguard offered me a fresh towel, and asked if I would like to be in the shade or sun, and then moved the umbrella to suit my request. However, I did have to ask him to come back so I could get a drink and snack menu, which should be sat on tables in between the sunbeds – but maybe that’s the British in me, always looking for a good glass of wine and nibbles!

For trips into town, there’s a fleet of bikes for guests’ use, and if you have a car, parking is free. Breakfast catered for all dietary needs, including celiac, vegan, and vegetarian. The freshly squeezed orange juice, fresh coffee and pastries were incredible, and so were the serene views on the breakfast terrace.

Hotel Byron is also home to a Michelin Chef, so if fine dining is something you like, you do not even have to leave the hotel. However, for me, my Michelin dinner at Hotel Byron was the least enjoyable experience of my trip. For Italians, I am sure fine dining is a nice break from the traditional food they have grown up eating. But, as a tourist visiting Italy, I wanted nothing but traditional Nonna’s cooking, which seemed to be like trying to find a needle in a haystack while staying in Forte dei Marmi.



Hotel Byron’s glass restaurant looks over the pool

I thought the pasta portion at Kourtney Kardashian’s Italian wedding was a marketing ploy until I was served 5 single bits of Fusilli for one of my courses. I felt a little bit heartbroken, as this was the only traditional Italian food I had been served since I got to Forte dei Marmi, and I wanted A LOT more of it. Neapolitan Pizza felt a long way away, and while I was sitting in a beautiful restaurant in Tuscany, dipping my fork into an Asparagus, I was dreaming of my local Pizza restaurant in London.

If the restaurant had these options as well as their fine-dining experience, the hotel would be perfect. Who doesn’t want to have pizza and pasta when visiting Italy?

Next on my quest to find the best “unknown spots” was Buonamico Wine Resort , which the staff at Hotel Byron suggested visiting. Immersed in the vineyards of Montecarlo, this winery’s tasting experience was one of the main highlights of my trip. I would not exactly call myself a wine expert, but I do believe I have a refined palate (I think my years of cheap wine at university scarred me forever), and wow, it was good.



Buonamico Wine Resort was the highlight of my trip
Buonamico Wine Resort was the highlight of my trip

Unfortunately, we cannot buy their wine in the UK yet, but I bought a few home with me to last until they branch out internationally (which I was promised will happen soon!). While I did not spend the night, I was given a tour around their hotel, which had 360 views of beautiful vineyards, a stunning pool, a romantic restaurant and beautiful modern rooms.



The winery also has a hotel on-site so you do not have to worry about a designated driver!

On the way back from the Winery, I stopped off in Lucca, which is known as the most graceful of Tuscany’s provincial capitals. Set at the heart of one of Italy’s richest agricultural regions, Lucca has prospered since Roman times. Its heyday was the eleventh to fourteenth centuries when the silk trade brought wealth and political power. Lucca first lost its independence to Pisa in 1314, then, under Castruccio Castracani, forged an empire in the west of Tuscany. Today Lucca is among the wealthiest and most conservative cities in Tuscany, its prosperity gained largely through silk and high-quality olive oil. The town is a delightful place to wander, and I had a quick walking tour around the walled city, which can be walked around in just a few hours. Much of the centre is free from traffic, although you will have to keep an eye out for the many cyclists weaving through the crowds.

If visiting Lucca you must visit the ‘social heart’ of the town, Piazza San Michele. Once the site of the Roman forum, it is now a lively square filled with cute shops and cafés; its daily market sells clothes, bags, sweets and tourist knick-knacks.

After a quick stay in Lucca, it was time to head back to Pisa and catch my flight back to London. I had a few hours to burn, so I hunted down the best pizza in Pisa and scoffed it down – finally, some proper Italian food!

Got a story? Email our Lifestyle Editor at rebecca.nicholson@reachplc.com


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